Travelling, living, and working abroad, especially to a place as dynamic and history-rich as Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), more known as Saigon, Vietnam can be challenging as well as rewarding. The experience is sure to be priceless in both personal and professional terms. The downside is that if you go without some basic knowledge of the city, its culture and people, the pitfalls of being hassled, taken advantage, or culture-shock can happen. Here is a quick start guide to give you a heads up on living in Saigon.
Travel during the best time
The heat is on in Saigon. This line from the hit play can be taken quite literally as the climate in Saigon can be uncomfortably hot for one used to temperate climate. Saigon has two distinctive seasons – wet and dry, with a year round constant temperature. The dry season, which starts around December and lasts until April, is generally considered the best time to visit the city. If you’re aiming to spend most of your visit exploring the streets, make sure you pack enough summer clothes and sturdy walking shoes.
Image courtesy of TrailFinders.ie.
Tip: while there is no dress code and street fashion is casual and relaxed, wear clothes with enough coverage, if you plan to visit religious sites such as temples or pagodas.
Know your specific housing needs
Be clear from the start what you want and need by way of accommodation. Aside from budget, this would help you determine the right kind of housing to look for. Short-term rentals like budget hotels and hostel dorms can be found all over the city, and are particularly plenty in Pham Ngu Lao Street, a backpacker’s area in District 1. They can cost as low as $5 per night and therefore ideal if you plan to lead a nomadic lifestyle and travel on a shoestring budget.
For a stay of more than two months, an apartment is the best choice. Many apartment buildings usually come with facilities such as pool and parking area, while ground floor lobby with stores, gym, spa, tennis courts, and park can be found in some high-end apartment buildings. Housekeeping and laundry service are available in what are called “serviced apartments” and payment may be included or independent from the monthly rent. Apartments cost $300 dollars upwards, with large serviced apartments costing as much as a decent villa.
If you’re lucky with your corporate housing budget and have a big family in tow, then a villa can suit your need for more indoor space and privacy. A garden, pool, and courtyard where your kids can run around are some of the big perks that come with renting a villa in Saigon.
Image courtesy of allways.pt.
Tip: if security and privacy are your priority concerns, check the security system and services implemented in the kind of housing you’re interested in.
All districts are created equal but some are more equal than others
Monthly housing rent is determined to a large part by the district location; the principle being, that the nearer a district is to the city center, the higher the rent.
The city center lies in District 1, known as the central business district where government offices, foreign embassies, and historical city attractions are located. Business mixes with pleasure in this district as this is also where major shopping malls, boutique stores, movie theaters, bars and restaurants cluster. Consequently, the rent here for a one-bedroom serviced apartment can equal a three-bedroom apartment in District 7. Same goes with other cost of living expenses like food, transportation, and entertainment.
Image courtesy of homedecorgallery.blogspot.com.
Explore the less expensive districts in the city, particularly those that have expat-friendly areas like Thao Dien Ward in District 2 and Phu My Hung in District 7. As they are located at some distance from the city center, they are less crowded but not lacking in international shops, restaurants, and recreational spots. And what keeps you from checking out other districts such as District 3, District 4, District 5, Tan Binh, Binh Thanh, and Phu Nhuan?
Plenty of work opportunities if you’re sharp about it
While most articles always refer to English teaching posts for expats who come into the country without a sure job waiting for them, your work opportunities are not limited to that. Start with what you know, your skills and expertise, and then see if there is a market for those. Consulting work across industries such as banking and finance, marketing, media production, and entrepreneurship can be found.
Tip: Establish connections with the expat community as their help is invaluable and you can use the network as leverage.
It is also notable that the younger generation of expats have tech-savvy skills that are now creating a demand in the Vietnamese job market. Web development and design, mobile app development, SEO and SEM services are some of the tech skills that are on their way to becoming the trend. So, if you’re a young tech entrepreneur with a vision and a sharp creative grasp of the local market (it is advisable that you do your homework), you can cheaply bootstrap your startup in Saigon. The US consulate in Vietnam gives the basics of doing business in Ho Chi Minh City.
More bang for your buck, but
One oft-cited reason that makes living in Saigon attractive is the low cost of living. 1 US Dollar is equivalent to approximately 20,000 Vietnamese Dong, which is five to ten times cheaper than the cost of living in western countries.
This incredible value of the dollar translates to a better quality of life for an expat who just has a modest amount of money, and yet has a multimillionaire’s buying power in the context of Vietnamese economy. This delights wannabe-expats who have often heard the lines of having “more bang for the buck” but not what comes after: “have the street smart on knowing how and where to spend it”.
Image courtesy of allposters.com.
While more established expat-friends can give you a number of tips, the quality of being street smart may only be acquired after a certain period of time spent living in the city. It helps immensely if you learn the local language.
Yes, Vietnamese has 6 different tonalities you may never master. Yes, you’re sure to come across as the funny tourist making tongue-twisting sounds that only approximate their language. Yes, sign language is easier and more fun. The big but is that the locals usually appreciate the effort and would go out of their way to help you. In time, you may know enough to understand when the masseuse tells another masseuse you have a hairy back and she’s going to charge you more for it.
Getting around the traffic and scams
Traffic in Saigon has been described as “insane”, an “organized chaos”, and somehow representative of the city’s “magic”. Here’s an amazing look at HCMC’s cross-town traffic:
In navigating the city, you have the following options:
Bus: depending on distance & type, this is one of the cheapest means of public transport (3,000 – 10,000 VND). It covers most tourist destinations and terminals in major depots such as Ben Thanh Station, Cho Lon Station and Mien Dong Station. However, distances between bus stations & tourist destinations are far and you’re likely going to wait for a long time.
Motorbike: locally known as xe om, it’s the cheap and quick way to get to any part in the city as xe om drivers know the city like the back of their hand. A ride can cost from 20,000 –50,000 VND, depending on the distance covered. Make sure you agreed on a price before you get on the bike. If you prefer to drive one yourself, there are plenty of motorbike rentals in the city. Just make sure you have a valid Vietnamese driver’s license.
Taxi: a safer means of transport compared to the xe om, it is divided into two main types: those operated by taxi companies, and those operated by individual drivers. To avoid being a victim of notorious taxi scams in the city, ride the former and avoid the latter.
With the former you have licensed and careful drivers who charge a reasonable rate based on properly installed meters. The latter is equipped with a tampered meter designed to inflate rates, or sometimes has no meter at all. An unlicensed driver who takes unnecessary detours to charge more usually operates this kind of taxi.
Reputable taxi companies to look out for are:
a. Mai Linh
Driver uniforms are either white short-sleeve button down shirt with green tie, or full green suit. Contact number: (08) 38 38 38 38
b. Vinasun
Driver uniforms are either white short-sleeve button down shirt with maroon tie, or dark green button down shirt with maroon tie. Contact number: (08) 38 27 27 27
c. Vina Taxi
A Vina Taxi is hard to miss with its full yellow color and contact number: (08) 38 11 11 11
Image courtesy of TuoitreNews.
Be warned that scammers are resourceful when they pose as drivers from these companies. They either use the same names but with slight variations that fool the eye of the inexperienced tourist, eg. Mai Lin, Vinasum, or paste similar fake logos and design on the cab body which they can peel off or re-attach.
Remember to:
• Check taxi logo and numbers displayed on the side
• Check through windows if driver’s license/registration is displayed
• Check to see if the taxi has fare-meter (going rate is 12,000 VND)
• Ignore drivers who yell or wave to get your attention as professional drivers don’t operate this way
Car rental: basically a taxi for rent when you want longer rides outside the city to nearby provinces. Suitable when you want to travel in privacy and convenience. Rental cost depends on the type of car and is generally expensive as the rate is per day and the charge may range from 500-000 – 10,000,000 VND. While some agencies require an advance payment or deposit, pay the rental agency directly in cash.
Image courtesy of Malidennatours.com.
Cyclo: this is perfect if you want to slowly take in the city sights. Expect to pay 20,000 VND for short rides and 50,000 – 100,000 VND for a leisurely hour-long tour of the city.
The cheaper, the better
Many consider Saigon as one of Asia’s best-kept culinary secrets. And like Poe’s purloined letter, the secret to the city’s inimitable cuisine is out there in the streets. However, if you’re squeamish about eating street food and would rather skip it, you’ll be missing half the point of living in Saigon.
When dining in the city, the rule of thumb is quite simple: the cheaper, the better. The clues lie in the venue and lighting of the place. In fancy restaurants with incandescent lighting, it is best to just order drinks, as the food is pricey and usually disappointing. Conversely, don’t let the sidewalk stall or hole-in-the-wall joints with their harsh fluorescent lighting turn you off. The inscrutable vendor/cook could nonchalantly serve up a hot pot that can be epiphanous in its rich complex tastes. The best part is a full meal with drinks would set you back for less than $5.
Image courtesy of Dendau.vn.
One must-eat dish is pho, a staple Vietnamese dish made of rice noodles, vegetables, and meat which can be chicken or beef, in clear broth made tasty with lime, chili, cilantro, and mint. Another must-try is bánh mi, a meat-filled sandwich with pickled veggies such as carrots, cucumber, and cilantro, and spiced with chili sauce. For coffee freaks, Saigon’s coffee scene is worth checking out.
Drive a hard bargain
While high-end shopping malls are plenty in the city, the action is in the local markets. The prices are not fixed and everything can be bargained for. Ben Thanh Market in District 1 is probably the best known among tourists, with an array of products more targeted for tourists like local knick-knacks and kitschy souvenirs. At 6 in the evening, vendors set up a night market where you can find dry goods such as clothing, bags, and accessories, sectioned from clusters of food stalls.
Another landmark market to visit is the Binh Tay Market in Cholon of District 5. Cholon literally means “big market” and its size reflects the name as it is the largest market in the city. Its products are targeted more for locals with many stalls catering to those who buy in bulk for commercial purposes.
Image courtesy of AroundTheWorldinEightYears.com.
A few things to keep in mind when shopping: expats and tourists are charged more than the locals so make sure to bargain hard. The key is to have a positive attitude and sense of humor. Limit your bargaining to products you’re interested in. And if you still don’t think the final offer is fair, politely but firmly say “No” with a smile, and walk away. You’ll be surprised how many vendors will agree to drop further their final offer.
Spoiled for health and wellness
Saigon is a health nut’s paradise. Massage, facials, and other spa treatments give welcome relief from the hot and humid climate. When you need to loosen up your muscles after a whole day jaunt, de-stress from work, or simply relax, just pop into one of the many spas you can find all over the city. Services and treatments can go as low as $14 and as high as $88 or more for a full package. For a more active approach to health, you can enroll in fitness, yoga, or spin classes offered by professional instructors.
Image courtesy of Link Travel Services Corp.
What’s on in Saigon
With a city as dynamic and cosmopolitan as Saigon, city nightlife is sure to be vibrant. No need to twiddle your thumbs and wait for someone’s call for a night out.
This short list of 5 places to spend your evenings in the city will keep you busy meeting friends and making new ones. For a wide-ranging guide to what’s on in Saigon and the rest of the country, be sure to check out Word HCMC and AsiaLIFE Vietnam for news and events, features, reviews, blogs, and more. AnyArena is also another online lifestyle guide with a focus on HCMC’s entertainment, nightlife, and fashion scene.
Diving into the city happenings, you’d more or less want to share them on Facebook. Take note: you may find it problematic when trying to access Facebook in the country. If so here are some workarounds that you can use depending on your platform: for Windows, for Mac, for iPhone or iPod Touch. For more updated workarounds: you can check here, here, and here.
One last thing worth mentioning
What with all the excitement, anxiety, and numerous travel details, you might miss the crucial matter of securing your health insurance. Be sure to consult with your health insurance company if your insurance plan covers health concerns when living and working abroad in Vietnam.
Now you’re on your way to making the most of your stay in the city. Good luck!
Cover image courtesy of skyscrapercity.com.
Author Bio:
Steven Do is currently the Director of HousingInteractive Inc – Vietnam. You can reach him at steven.do@housinginteractive.com. This post is co-authored with Theresa Padillo.